Important, Please Read There appears to be a change to the lock nut (part #103 in Sub2000 manual diagram) on newer Sub2000 rifles that was brought to our attention by 2 customers. They were both purchased recently and have serial numbers starting with ED followed by three digits. The lock nut is different than what our forend coupler was designed for as shown in pics below. The new lock nut has a flange where there used to be a straight nose and interferrs with our coupler. If your gun has this new coupler the only fix now is too alter the lock nut as explained in the 2nd pic down. There will be a coupler to adapt to this change in the future but is not yet available. First pic shows old style lock nut, the second pic shows new style lock nut and you can see where it interferrs. If you do not want to wait for the new coupler to address this new style lock nut the alteration required to the lock nut to make it work isn't drastic but does require filing or grinding a flat on the nose flange of the new style lock nut approximately .050 as explained in the 2nd pic down. In addition to the intructions in 2nd pic down also cover the exposed metal left from filing/grinding with paint to prevent corrosion. The 3rd pic down is one of the customers alterations for an example.
OUT STOCK (Next run to be compatible with old or new style lock nuts mentioned above, expected availablity is February 27th)
Available without any picatinny rails in the product store. You then add the picatinny rails you want to the order. There are 4 different length rails available for this forend (5, 8, 11 or 19 slots which are 2.150", 3.330", 4.515" and 7.650" long respectively). The 5, 8, or 11 slot rails can be placed toward the front or back of the forend or various locations in between. Note: One side of the forend must remain railless for full foldability.
Prices (Prices Include Shipping):
R6 Forend with no picatinny rails $147.00 (Out Of Stock)
(1) 5 Slot picatinny rail with hardware $ 17.50
(1) 8 Slot picatinny rail with hardware $ 19.00
(1) 11 Slot picatinny rail with hardware $ 23.50
(1) 19 Slot picatinny rail with hardware $ 31.00
T15 torx wrench $ 2.00
(1) 10-24 grommet (possibly needed for those using
alternative rails other than ours, our rails come with
these) $ .95
This forend features many of the same design qualities that our SU forends and PLR forends have. The main feature of this design, however, is that it indexes to repeatable positive positions in 90 degree increments to allow you to keep your optic mounted, zeroed, and still be able to fold the gun. This is accomplished by using the same concept as a picatinny rail but with four 45 degree tangs interfacing with a mating negative in the face of the forend mounting coupler. This provides positive positioning in the X,Y Plane for repeatability. This design also leaves very little room for contaminates to enter the interface.
Changes made since first run include new slot cutouts for more rail options (basically any rail that is 19 slot or under and uses 10-24 screws in bolt hole patterns divisible by .394) and cooling slots machined to accept Ergo LowPro Rail Covers when a rail is not present in that location. Cut rail covers into four rib sections for use. Magpul poymer rails can be used along with their supplied hardware except in the most forward location or rearward location in which case using one of our rail grommets would solve this but rail will protrude slightly out the front. Ours and the Magpul rails will co-witness with either the factory sights or our R7 front sight when using a mount that co-witnesses with AR15 iron sights when mounted on a AR15 A3 flattop reciever that has a 1/2 inch riser. In our example pic mount used was the ARMS22 M68 Aimpoint mount without spacer. Below are pics showing new rail slot cutouts, Ergo Lowpro rail covers, and a pic of the cowitnessing.
To index forend loosen knurled nut until it contacts forend (approx 1/10 inch), index forend to desired position, and retighten knurled nut. No tools needed.
Gun Interface- Forend coupler clamps to barrel and also engages back plate on S2K for positioning. Does not allow barrel to unscrew when force is applied to forend. Full dog point set screws also engage groove in barrel nut as a secondary safety for forend slippage.
Features: -Indexable to allow top mounted optics to remain on and still fold gun -Repeatable Zero -Modular design -Main Body and Rails CNC Machined From 7075 T6 Aluminum Stock(60% Stronger Than 6061) -Mil Spec 8625 Black Hard Anodized -Mil-Spec Picatinny Dimensions -Blackened 416 SS Screw Posts for Rails and Clamping Bolt -Grade 8 Screws -Rails Precisely Located With Bugle Type Flat Head Screw In Combination With Screw Post -Extended Clamping Screw Post For Increased Thread Engagement/Strength -Enclosed front -Made In USA
Note: Factory front site must removed for installation. This is easily accomplished using a Heat Gun. See installation instructions below for more detail.
One side of forend must remain rail free for full folding of gun.
Installation Instructions For #R6 (These instructions are also available on our website www.redlionprecision.com) Tools required: 5/64 allen wrench, 1/8 allen wrench, 5/32 allen wrench, T15 torx wrench, and a flathead screwdriver (torque wrench recommended)
1. Make sure magazine is removed and chamber is empty.
2. If not already done the front sight must be removed for install. I removed mine by cutting off the plastic sight from its metal bushing with a dremmel tool. I then used a heat gun set at 800 degrees and heated the bushing for about 4 minutes at which time the bushing easily slid off and the residue from the loctite that held the bushing on could be wiped clean . After doing this I believe if you wanted to keep the sight in a reusable condition, you would not have to cut the plastic sight off the metal bushing. I believe that placing heat on the barrel adjacent to the bushing would achieve the same result though would likely take a bit longer.
3.Remove stock forend. After removed your barrel may be able to turn, try to make sure it doesn't throughout install. It can move a little but you don't want it unscrewing much.
4.Configure R6 forend (part #2 in exploded view diagram) with rails at whatever location you desire. Forend does not have any predetermined top or bottom as all sides are indentical. To attach rails place grommet into locating hole from the inside of the forend (hold in place with finger or popsicle stick or alike if your finger can't reach). Place rail into position. Place 10-24 x 1/2" flathead screw through the rail and into the grommet and tighten till grommet is slightly flexed and somewhat conformed to the forend ID radius.
5. Place coupler (part# 6 in exploded view diagram) over barrel and slide all the way back until cutout face contacts the barrel nut. Be sure that the clamping holes are down and the Red Lion Logo (lion's head) is on the ejection side of gun.
6. Place part #'s 7, 8, 9, & 10 in place as shown in diagram if they were previously removed (these are shipped in place). Tighten only #7 into #9 until coupler just turns on barrel with minimal clearance. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT #7 AND #9 ARE USED TOGETHER IN THIS LOCATION TO ACHIEVE CORRECT CLAMPING FORCE.
7. Place part #8 and #10 into place according to the diagram. IMPORTANT:Before tightening make sure the gun is unfolded and locked into its firing position, this orients the square back plate of gun that the coupler orients off of. After making sure coupler is slid all the way toward the receiver (cutout face contacting barrel nut face) tighten #8 into #10 until the coupler ears contact (6ft/lbs MAX, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, this doesn’t hold anything on, it just orients the forend to the square plate) the square back plate of the gun that contacts the polymer reciever.
8.Tighten part #7 into #9. This clamps the barrel and prevents movement forward and back (while also locking the barrel relationship to the square plate). If using a torque wrench, tighten to 9-10ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench just make it really tight, basically as tight as you can make it (checking this explained further down). Place the pair of full dog set screws (#11 in diagram) into the coupler, they will fall into the barrel nut groove with a small gap between them and the barrel nut groove front wall. Do not screw completely down onto the bottom of the groove as this could possibly work against #7+#9 or #8+#10 clamping hardware (Teflon tape if need be to prevent them from backing). You can now look through the top of the coupler (from top of gun) and see light through the gap between the full dog set screws and barrel nut groove front wall. When shooting for the first time check to see if this gap closes every 1 or 2 shots for atleast the first ten shots (try to have a good purchase on the forend when shooting for this check to make sure its getting a good jolt). If the gap between the full dog set screws and the barrel nut groove front wall closes then the forend is moving forward and #7 cap screw needs tightened into #9 more. This gap check is mostly helpful in allowing those without a torque wrench determine whether they have #7+#9 hardware tightened properly but should also be done for those using torque wrenches as a double check. NOTE: If you find that you need to tighten #7+#9 further after gap check, make sure that the full dog set screws are off the bottom of the barrel nut groove as they could hinder further tightening.
9.Now part #s 5, 4, 2 , and 1 must be assembled into one unit. Place #4 (threaded ID end first) over the nose of part #5. Then place part #2 over the nose of part #5 (see diagram).Place part #3 screw (6-32x3/8 torx plus flathead) into the countersunk holes in part #2 and screw into the threaded holes in the OD of the nose of part #5. Just snug till all 8 are in place, then tighten. Try to snug and then tighten opposing screws, like you would tighten lug nuts on a tire. Now place the endcap (part #1) in the front of the forend (part#2) and use 2 more part #3 screws to secure.
10.Place part # 5, 4, 2, and 1 unit over the barrel (part # 5 first). Point muzzle upward. Slide back till you are able to thread part # 4 (knurled nut) onto the coupler (part #6) that was installed previously. Thread until coupler (part# 6) is able to contact forend adapter (part# 5) and then orient so that the mating tangs engage, then finish tightening part # 4 down to lock into place.
To index the forend: Unscrew knurled nut till forend can be lifted up (approx 1/8" movement needed) and spun into next location (90 degree increments) let the forend back down for tangs to engage tighten knurled nut to lock in place If knurled nut seems gritty when tightening and loosening, apply a small amount of light oil to threads
